The Laurisilva forest of Madeira Island

As it is well known, some fossils from the south-west of France show the existence of trees, namely Laurus primigenia and Persea typica, similar to Madeira´s current Laurel tree (Laurus azorica) and Vinhático (Persea indica) dating from the Oligocene (38 million years). This information suggests that during the Miocene (23 million years), plant communities from the Lauraceae family with aspects identical to the flora that currently remains on Madeira Island, occupied Western Europe in the past. This flora will have disappeared from Western Europe during the Quarternary, due to the great climatic cooling that accompanied consecutive glaciations which occurred in this period. At the same time the Sahara desertification began, not making possible the establishment of this subtropical kind of flora in Northern Africa. Madeira, for having a favourable and stable climate, presented great conditions for the establishment of a considerable part of these species. 

Some factors that explain the permanence of the Laurissilva forest on Madeira Island are its geographic location (which dictates more favourable and stable climate conditions in relation to Northern Africa and Europe), its geomorphological characteristics (volcanic origin, particularly deep valleys, predominantly facing North and South directions), and its climatic characteristics (such as appropriate temperature). 

Madeira´s central mountains.

Because it is an island of volcanic origin, there are rocks which function as an “oven” concentrating the heat. The rocks concentrate the heat of the sun, radiating that heat to the environment during the night, in such a way that the temperature fluctuation between day and night is very reduced. 

The moisture is also conducive to the development of the Laurissilva forest. Predominant trade winds, running from north to south give rise to humid fogs that cause precipitation, creating an appropriate environment for the development and rise of vegetation, and also giving origin to water deposits necessary for all kinds of life. This abundance of water and humid fogs remain at an altitude of 500 to 1200 meters. Above this altitude the vegetation of the island changes drastically and new kinds of species emerge. All of these factors combined, are conducive to the emergence of endemisms. 

As it is known, Madeira’s Laurissilva forest has been recognised as a Natural World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO). This is an international consecration of importance that rewards a conservation effort developed recently. UNESCO thus includes the Laurissilva in the restricted lot of “sites” to be protected and which constitute the spoils of humanity. At a national level, this is a landmark of great importance, since for the first time, Portugal included a geographic region on the list of the world’s great sites of importance in terms of natural heritage. The Madeiran indigenous flora is one of the island’s greatest attractions, given its scientific interest. In this sense, this forest is considered a living relic, originally from the Tertiary. The total area of ​​this forest in Madeira (15,000 acres), given its scientific relevance and preservation status, was also included in 1992 in the European Network of Biogenetic Reserves (protected areas where unique, rare, or endangered ecosystems, biotopes and specimens occur), under the aegis of the Europe Council. Some of the main plant species  that can be found here are the Laurel (Laurus novocanariensis), the Vinhático (Persea indica), the Til or Fetid Laurel (Ocotea foetens), the Estreleiras (Argyranthemum pinnatifidum), the Goivo da Rocha (Matthiola maderensis L.), and the Beeches (Myrica Faya) to name a few.

Laurissilva forest. Madeira.

Laurus novocanariensis is the scientifically known name for Madeira and Canary Islands´ endemic Laurel. It is a plant of the Lauraceae family. Until recently, it was considered together with the populations of Azorean Laurels (Laurus azorica) a single species, however in 2004 due to the many genetic, morphological, and physiological differences found, these have been designated not one but two different species. The populations of Madeira and of the Canaries have received a new designation (L. novocanariensis) due to their similarities, and the populations of the Azores maintained the original name Laurus azorica. It presents itself as a tree up to 20 meters high, evergreen, with a very dense canopy, and young branches of variable leaves, of lanceolate, ovate, oblong or elliptical shapes, of 5 to 17 centimeters long. These are leathery and aromatic, glabrous on the top and usually tummy on the bottom, when young. The flowers of this tree are small, unisexual, yellowish-white, and arranged in summits. The fruits have an ovoid shape and are black when ripe. One of the main and most abundant endemic species of the island which gives name to its singular Forest, the Laurissilva.

Vaccinium padifolium – Madeira.